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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.